The Complete Guide to Down Insulation

A Jöttnar technical guide

The Complete Guide to Down Insulation

Everything you need to know about down insulation. Fill power, fill weight, hydrophobic down and goose vs duck.

Down is one of the most remarkable materials in nature. Ounce for ounce, nothing in the world insulates better. A fistful of high-quality goose down, barely weighing anything, compressing to almost nothing, can keep a person warm at temperatures where the body would otherwise struggle to survive.

That's why it's been trusted for centuries. And why, in an era of advanced synthetics and technical membranes, the best mountaineers, climbers and alpinists still reach for a down jacket when the temperature drops and weight matters.

This guide explains everything you need to make a genuinely informed decision about down insulation including what it is, how it works, what the numbers mean, and what to look for when buying.

What is down?

Down is the soft, fine layer of feathers that sits beneath the outer plumage of waterfowl - primarily geese and ducks. These clusters are not feathers in the conventional sense. They have no rigid shaft. Instead they're a three-dimensional structure of interlocking filaments that trap air, and it's that trapped air that insulates.

The down found in high-performance jackets comes almost exclusively from geese. Goose down clusters are larger, more resilient and trap more air than duck down - producing higher fill power ratings and superior resilience over time. Premium goose down, particularly from older, larger birds, is simply the best natural insulation available. All Jöttnar down jackets use goose down.

Jöttnar jackets use a 93/7 down-to-feather ratio — the highest practically achievable at scale, and a meaningful differentiator in real-world performance.

Down jackets are not filled with pure down. They contain a mixture of down clusters and feathers, expressed as a ratio - for example 90/10 or 93/7. The first number is the percentage of down; the second is feathers. Higher down content means better insulation, softer feel and lighter weight. Feathers are heavier, less insulating, and can occasionally poke through the shell fabric.

Budget jackets often use 80/20 or 75/25 ratios. Premium jackets use 90/10 or above. Jöttnar jackets use a 93/7 down-to-feather ratio - among the highest available, and the highest practically achievable at scale.

Fill power and fill weight: the two numbers that actually matter

Fill power is the most commonly cited number in down jacket specs, and the most commonly misunderstood. It measures the volume, in cubic inches, that one ounce of down occupies when fully lofted. A 700 fill power down expands to 700 cubic inches per ounce. An 850 fill power down expands to 850 cubic inches. Higher fill power means larger, more resilient clusters that trap more air without adding bulk or weight.

What fill power does not tell you: how warm the jacket is. That requires a second number - fill weight, the total mass of down in the jacket expressed in grams. A lightweight jacket might use 80–120g. A serious expedition jacket might use 250g or more. Fill power is the quality of the fuel; fill weight is how much fuel is in the tank.

Fill power measures quality. Fill weight measures quantity. Warmth is a function of both.

When comparing jackets, always look at both numbers together. A 900 fill power jacket with 80g of down may be lighter and more packable than an 850 fill power jacket with 200g - but considerably less warm.

Why does nobody talk about fill weight? One reason is that manufacturers prefer the simple fill power headline. A less cynical reason is that down jackets use multiple different constructions - hybrid fills, body-mapped baffles, hood and collar volumes - which makes cross-brand fill weight comparisons less useful than they appear. Our jackets are engineered precisely to achieve defined use cases, which may not be achieved by simply loading up on fill weight alone. The jacket must be tuned. We are happy to discuss fill weight with enquirers in context - just get in touch.

The Jöttnar flagship down jacket

1 | 16

Fenrir Expedition-Grade Down Jacket


Colour
Size

Sizing charts

The measurements in the charts refer to your body measurements. Measure your body as described and then choose the corresponding product size.

Men's Sizing

Small
EUR 46 - 50
Medium
EUR 50 - 52
Large
EUR 52 - 54
X Large
EUR 54 - 56
Chest 96 - 102 cm
38 - 40 in.
102 - 106 cm
40 - 42 in.
106 - 111 cm
42 - 44 in.
111 - 116 cm
44 - 46 in.
Waist 76 - 81 cm
30 - 32 in.
81 - 86 cm
32 - 34 in.
86 - 91 cm
34 - 36 in.
91 - 96 cm
36 - 38 in.
Inside Leg 80 cm
31.5 in.
81 cm
31.9 in.
82 cm
32.2 in.
83 cm
32.7 in.



Women's Sizing

X Small
UK 6 - 8
EUR 34 - 36
US 2 - 4
Small
UK 10 - 12
EUR 36 - 38
US 6 - 8
Medium
UK 12 - 14
EUR 40 - 42
US 8 - 10
Large
UK 14 - 16
EUR 42 - 44
US 10 - 12
Bust 82 - 86.5 cm
32 - 34 in.
86.5 - 91.5 cm
34 - 36 in.
91.5 - 96.5 cm
36 - 38 in.
96.5 - 101.5 cm
38 - 40 in.
Waist 64 - 68.5 cm
25 - 27 in.
68.5 - 73 cm
27 - 29 in.
73 - 77.5 cm
29 - 31 in.
77.5 - 82.5 cm
31 - 33 in.
Low Hip 88 - 92.5 cm
34.5 - 36.5 in.
92.5 - 97.5 cm
36.5 - 38.5 in.
97.5 - 102.5 cm
38.5 - 40.5 in.
102.5 - 107.5 cm
40.5 - 42.5 in.
Inside Leg 77 cm
30.3 in.
78 cm
30.7 in.
79 cm
31.1 in.
80 cm
31.5 in.


How to measure

 

Measuring guide

Chest/Bust

With the tape under your armpit, measure across fullest part and across shoulder blades.

Waist

Measure around natural waistline at the narrowest part.

Low Hip

Measure around the widest part of the hip bones.

Inside leg

In a standing position, measure from top of inside leg at crotch to ankle bone.

View product

The wet weather problem and how DownTek™ solves it

Down's one significant weakness is moisture. When down clusters get wet - from rain, snow or perspiration - the interlocking filaments collapse and clump together, losing their ability to trap air. A saturated down jacket can lose up to 90% of its insulating value. This has historically been down's great compromise: unbeatable when dry, dramatically compromised when wet.

DownTek™ is a PFC-free hydrophobic treatment applied to each individual down cluster that fundamentally changes this relationship. The treatment causes moisture to bead and roll off the clusters rather than being absorbed by them. Down treated with DownTek™ absorbs 33% less moisture than untreated down, retains 66% more loft when wet, and dries significantly faster. All Jöttnar down jackets use DownTek™ treated down.

Untreated down fails in under an hour of moisture exposure. DownTek™ treated down maintains performance for 1,500 minutes.

It doesn't make down waterproof - nothing does - but it extends the performance window in marginal conditions considerably, and makes down genuinely viable in the wet, unpredictable weather characteristic of British and Alpine mountain environments. Worn under a waterproof shell, a DownTek™ treated down jacket is an entirely credible choice for serious wet-weather mountain use.

For a full technical explanation of how DownTek™ works, see our separate DownTek™ guide.

Baffle construction: how down is contained

Down is held in channels called baffles that prevent it from shifting and clumping
in one area while leaving cold spots in another. The construction type significantly affects thermal performance.

Through-stitch (sewn-through) baffles: The shell and lining are stitched directly together. Simple and has the lightweight advantage, but the stitching can create thin lines with no insulation - potential cold spots in sustained cold.

Box baffles: Three-dimensional baffles that maintain down loft without the cold-spot problem of through-stitching. More complex, heavier, more expensive, but better thermal performance. Used in deep cold expedition jackets.

Chevron and shaped baffles: Directional baffle patterns that prevent down migration and optimise warmth in specific body areas.

The way down is contained within a jacket matters almost as much as the down itself. Body-mapped baffles can carry different fill volumes in different zones to optimise warmth precisely.

Different baffles within the same jacket may carry different amounts of down fill, depending on what performance that zone is required to deliver. This is body-mapped construction - engineering the jacket's thermal profile rather than simply filling it uniformly. Some jackets also use synthetic fill in specific zones, such as the shoulders (to resist rucksack strap compression) or at the front zip collar (where exhaled moisture is highest), with down in the primary insulation zones.

Down vs synthetic - and why sourcing matters

Down and synthetic insulation are not in direct competition - they serve different needs. Understanding when each is appropriate is more useful than arguing which is 'better'.

Choose down when weight and packability are priorities; conditions are predominantly dry or cold; you want maximum warmth for minimum bulk; or long-term performance matters. Down lasts decades. Synthetics degrade.

Choose synthetic when you'll be active in sustained wet conditions without a shell; you need insulation that performs in sustained damp without management; or budget is a primary constraint.

For a full comparison, see our separate Down vs Synthetic insulation guide.

Down lasts decades with proper care. Synthetic insulation degrades more quickly. The most sustainable jacket is the one that lasts longest.

The down industry has historically had welfare concerns around live-plucking and force-feeding. The Responsible Down Standard (RDS) addresses this directly - auditing the entire supply chain to confirm down is not sourced from force-fed or live-plucked birds.

All Jöttnar down is responsibly sourced, fully traceable, non live-plucked and DownTek™ treated for performance without PFCs - the chemical class historically used in hydrophobic treatments that carries environmental impact.

How to care for a down jacket

Proper care significantly extends the lifespan of a down jacket. Maintained correctly, a quality down jacket can last decades.

Washing:
Use a specialist down wash (such as Nikwax Down Wash) in a front-loading machine on a gentle cycle. Never dry-clean as the solvents strip the natural oils from the down clusters.

Drying:
Dry on a low heat setting in a tumble dryer - this is essential. Down must be dried thoroughly to prevent mildew. The process takes longer than expected; check regularly, keep going, and pull apart any clumped sections by hand.

Never dry-clean a down jacket. The solvents strip the natural oils from the down clusters permanently - damage that cannot be reversed.

Storage: Store uncompressed. Long-term compression damages the clusters' ability to loft. Hang in a wardrobe or store loosely in a large breathable bag - never in
the stuff sack.

DownTek™ refresh: Tumble-drying on low heat reactivates the DownTek™ treatment. If you notice water absorption increasing, a short tumble dry will usually restore performance.

For full care instructions, see our separate Down Jacket Care guide.

The Jöttnar down range

Fenrir Expedition-Grade Down Jacket

£329.00
Regular price £329.00

Thorne Down Jacket

£299.00
Regular price £299.00

Asta Lightweight Down Gilet

£269.00
Regular price £269.00

Glossary

RDS
Responsible Down Standard. Certification confirming ethical sourcing.
Baffle
Channels within a jacket that contain the down and prevent migration.
Fill weight
Total mass of down in a jacket (grams). Combined with fill power determines warmth.
Loft
How much a down cluster expands when uncompressed. Greater loft = better insulation.
DownTek™
PFC-free hydrophobic treatment applied to individual down clusters.
Fill Power
Volume (cubic inches) one ounce of down occupies when fully lofted. Quality metric.
Down-to-feather ratio
The proportion of down clusters to feathers. Higher down content = better insulation, lighter weight.